Quito, Ecuador
We had found a great Australian owned hostel online called 'The Secret Garden' and decided to spend our last two nights in Quito there. It is located right in the 'Old Town' so after dumping our bags we grabbed a map and worked out a rough walking tour for ourselves. It's a really nice area with lots of town squares with manicured gardens and a number of impressive cathedrals. The wealth of the Church is definitely on display in some of them, with one completely covered in gold leaf. The last stop on our tour was the Gothic style Basilica that sat on one of the highest points of the city. The view was spectacular and it was fun getting to the top of the spire and walking inside the roof of the Church. We then spent the night having dinner and drinks with some friends from our old tour who'd also done Galapagos, sharing stories and comparing experiences.
We were up early the next day with a plan to catch public transport up to the equator (about an hour and a half). There was a slight hiccup as we had to make a detour and double check that our flights for the next day actually still existed (the Internet was saying they didn't, but all was well), and we eventually found the bus going north. It was a really odd tourist attraction. While it was fun hopping back and forth across the equator and the view from the top of the large monument of the surrounding mountains was impressive, the rest was pretty strange. For one it was the middle of the day on a Tuesday so it was pretty dead and maybe with more people the atmosphere would be more exciting. But they'd tried to make it like a theme park with a big hotel next door and lots of restaurants and gift shops. There's random llamas to pat and a big building filled with stuff explaining the history of France. There just didn't seem to be rhyme nor reason to anything they'd done and we wandered around a little bewildered.
We headed back to Quito for a relax before heading to a restaurant underneath a statue of the Virgin Mary that looks over the city. We loved watching the sun drop slowly and the lights of the city flicker on one-by-one. The meal was amazing which also helped and after getting yelled at by a taxi driver, we eventually got back to the hostel ready to be up early for a flight to Costa Rica.
We were up early the next day with a plan to catch public transport up to the equator (about an hour and a half). There was a slight hiccup as we had to make a detour and double check that our flights for the next day actually still existed (the Internet was saying they didn't, but all was well), and we eventually found the bus going north. It was a really odd tourist attraction. While it was fun hopping back and forth across the equator and the view from the top of the large monument of the surrounding mountains was impressive, the rest was pretty strange. For one it was the middle of the day on a Tuesday so it was pretty dead and maybe with more people the atmosphere would be more exciting. But they'd tried to make it like a theme park with a big hotel next door and lots of restaurants and gift shops. There's random llamas to pat and a big building filled with stuff explaining the history of France. There just didn't seem to be rhyme nor reason to anything they'd done and we wandered around a little bewildered.
We headed back to Quito for a relax before heading to a restaurant underneath a statue of the Virgin Mary that looks over the city. We loved watching the sun drop slowly and the lights of the city flicker on one-by-one. The meal was amazing which also helped and after getting yelled at by a taxi driver, we eventually got back to the hostel ready to be up early for a flight to Costa Rica.
Nazca, Paracas and Lima
We left Arequipa on an overnight bus and arrived early in Nazca. We headed straight to our hotel, which looked as though it hadn't had guests since the 80's, dumped our bags and then made our way to the local airport. We had booked a light plane flight over the Nazca Lines- famous for their mysterious history. No one is quite sure how or why the lines and animal images were etched into the hard ground many years ago by the native Nazca people, but the theories are endless. We headed up into the air and despite both feeling a bit woozy, we were blown away by the clarity of the images and couldn't believe they could be made by an ancient civilisation so long ago. Whales, monkeys and birds were just a couple of the animals and there were also triangles that went on for hundreds of metres in perfectly straight lines. It made the stuff the 'Art Attack' guy did look basic.
Then it was time to relax by the hotel pool and despite the fact it looked like a middle ear infection waiting to happen, the water was cool and refreshing. Everyone enjoyed sitting around having a chat and some drinks before we were treated to a traditional local dinner that had been cooked entirely underground. Delicious.
After an overnight stop in the small coastal of Paracas, we headed for the capital, Lima, on the Air Force One of busses. As it was the last night of our trip, we headed to a cool bar for some celebratory cocktails and goodbye drinks.
Then it was time to relax by the hotel pool and despite the fact it looked like a middle ear infection waiting to happen, the water was cool and refreshing. Everyone enjoyed sitting around having a chat and some drinks before we were treated to a traditional local dinner that had been cooked entirely underground. Delicious.
After an overnight stop in the small coastal of Paracas, we headed for the capital, Lima, on the Air Force One of busses. As it was the last night of our trip, we headed to a cool bar for some celebratory cocktails and goodbye drinks.
Arequipa and Colca Canyon
After a couple of relaxing days in Cusco post trek (and a few more coffees at Jack's) we jumped on an overnight bus towards Arequipa. One of the bigger cities in Peru, we spent time roaming the streets and learning about the colonial culture. A particular highlight was a tour of a convent that is still home to up to 14 nuns. While there is new accommodation for them to live in, we got to see how the nuns lived over the past few hundred years. We didn't expect to enjoy the tour as much as we did and were very pleased we went along.
Then it was time to head to the small town of Chivay for two nights. It's the home of Colca Canyon and it's cruising Condor's. A tiny town of 6000 people, we managed to find an Irish pub on our first night and everyone enjoyed playing some pool, singing inappropriately loud and downing some drinks. A few seedy heads the next morning, but everyone persevered to the canyon and we were treated with beautiful weather and the most incredible Condor show. While it took a while for them to appear, we were very lucky to see so many adults and babies floating freely on the wind in the beautiful canyon.
Then it was time to head to the small town of Chivay for two nights. It's the home of Colca Canyon and it's cruising Condor's. A tiny town of 6000 people, we managed to find an Irish pub on our first night and everyone enjoyed playing some pool, singing inappropriately loud and downing some drinks. A few seedy heads the next morning, but everyone persevered to the canyon and we were treated with beautiful weather and the most incredible Condor show. While it took a while for them to appear, we were very lucky to see so many adults and babies floating freely on the wind in the beautiful canyon.
Cusco and Machu Picchu
Next up was Cusco, where we were to leave on the Inca Trail from. We had a few days there before the trek to acclimatise to the altitude, and we spent it by preparing for our four days- buying last minute clothes and supplies that we hadn't brought from home. We also found Jack's Cafe which we quickly became regulars at because of the incredible food and coffee that reminded us of home. Cusco itself is a really relaxed town, with cobblestone streets and lots of restaurants. We were offered about 1000 massages in the few days we were there, but didn't take them up on any.
Then it was D-Day. We drove two and a half hours to a tiny town named Ollantaytambo- the last port of call before the trail. There was a big feeling of anticipation among the group and we all carb loaded at dinner the night before. Then it was early to bed and early to rise as we needed to get to Kilometre 82 - the official starting point of the trail - nice and early to get our allotted 6kg to our porters and get on the track.
We could give a complete run down on the four days, but it would take too long. Safe to say it was one of the most incredible experiences of our lives. Some highlights were:
We arrived back in Cusco after a train and bus ride. We stank. We were exhausted. We were ready to collapse in bed. But we were pretty content with what we'd achieved.
Then it was D-Day. We drove two and a half hours to a tiny town named Ollantaytambo- the last port of call before the trail. There was a big feeling of anticipation among the group and we all carb loaded at dinner the night before. Then it was early to bed and early to rise as we needed to get to Kilometre 82 - the official starting point of the trail - nice and early to get our allotted 6kg to our porters and get on the track.
We could give a complete run down on the four days, but it would take too long. Safe to say it was one of the most incredible experiences of our lives. Some highlights were:
- Walking among ancient Incan Ruins, looking out on incredible views.
- Watching our 27 porters run ahead of us with 25kg on their back to set up our lunch and camp for when we got there- including a big round of applause.
- Eating the most amazing, unexpected food - 3 meals, 3 courses plus supper every day. We'd brought snacks with us but were so well fed that they weren't really necessary.
- Getting to the top of Dead Woman's Pass (4215m above sea level) together, taking in the view at the peak before having to quickly cover up from the massive storm that came through and walking down a steep downhill on slippery steps to camp.
- Playing cards and chatting into the nights with the rest of our group and leaders Jason, Raoul and Saida.
- Dom carrying a porters bag weighing 22kg for 45minutes, getting to experience what they go through every day for 8 months of a year.
- Finding a secret path at our last camp that led up to an old sacrificial site, overlooking ancient terraces.
- Being presented with a cake for our whole group by the chefs on the last night- an amazing feat considering they only had 3 gas stoves and no oven.
- Waking up at 2.30am on our last day and hiking in the dark until the sun rose and getting our first glimpse of Maccu Picchu from the famous Sun Gate.
- Spending 2 hours roaming around Maccu Picchu, learning about the history of the amazing site.
We arrived back in Cusco after a train and bus ride. We stank. We were exhausted. We were ready to collapse in bed. But we were pretty content with what we'd achieved.
Puno - Uros Islands - Homestay
Our next destination was the small Peruvian town of Puno- the gateway to the famous floating islands of the Uros people. After a change of tour leaders and some new people added to our group we crossed from Bolivia into Peru uncertainly, as directions were difficult to follow. Despite this, we got our stamps and bussed into Puno. A quiet town, we used the opportunity to have a big rest before venturing out on Lake Titicaca the following day. We started with a visit to the Uros Islands - made entirely from reeds from the lake that are literally floating. The people that live on the islands were incredibly welcoming and despite feeling pretty conspicuous, we checked out how they lived day-to-day and how they actually make the islands. Pretty fascinating and so unique compared to anything we'd seen before.
We continued by boat to one of the larger islands (a normal island- not made of reeds) on the lake to have lunch and then came one of the highlights of the journey so far- an overnight stay with a local family. We were welcomed to their community with local music and were invited to join in with some youth that were playing volleyball and soccer (it became quickly evident that we were no match for them). We were then dressed in local clothes (bright pink definitely goes with Dom's red hair) and took part in a local dance which of course we were brilliant at. We were introduced to our Mama Irene for the night and she took us by torchlight to her house- very basic, but a lot more comfortable than we had imagined. She introduced us to her kids, Christian, 6 and Laura, 10 and while she prepared dinner we coloured and drew with the children. They were pretty adorable and it became quickly apparent that they could be quite cheeky as well. We were treated to a delicious dinner and used our basic Spanish to communicate with the family. It reached a point though where we had exhausted all conversation points and we headed to bed, ready for an early start. We helped the next morning to prepare breakfast, peel potatoes for lunch, put the sheep out to 'mow' the grass, then joined our Papa Fernando in their field to gather potatoes. Christian and Laura were helping us work out where to dig and found our poor form pretty entertaining. After an hour or so of helping we lugged our picked potatoes back, had one final massive lunch, gave some hugs and then jumped back on the boat back to Puno. |
La Paz, Bolivia
We arrived in the unofficial capital of Bolivia in early morning. The bus ride was very comfortable and everyone had managed some rest so we were all in a happy mood. We got to our hotel and worked out some things to see and do. We'd heard about a new Gondola that had been built recently that was allowing residents that lived higher in the city to come down to the CBD with ease. After a short walk, we jumped on a Gondola and headed up the hill. In our carriage was a local man named Angel. He turned out to be one of the nicest people we've met while away and despite the fact he didn't speak a word of English, we managed to understand his explanations of the city and the surrounding areas. Once off the Gondola, he escorted us to a great lookout point, told us where not to walk because it was dangerous and then bid us 'Adios!'. We then strolled back to the Gondola station and while we were having lunch, a huge storm came through and we had a great view of the lightning. Once we'd got back to the hotel, we decided to keep moving and made our way to a small town square that was next to the famous San Pedro prison. In the past, tourists have been 'allowed' to take tours around the prison, however they've cut back on this a lot and unfortunately we were only able to look in through the front doors.
Death Road is one of La Paz's most famous attractions. Once a legitimate road used by local cars and trucks, for the past 10 years it has become a challenge for tourists to bike down. We'd heard a lot about the road and the challenges we'd face, but no one could have described the extraordinary views and beautiful landscape that we'd also encounter, making it one of the most amazing experiences we'd had. We experienced a range of weather conditions, including pelting rain, bright sunshine and even snow on the drive home. It was also the day that Nikki proved to be the toughest person on the planet. Battling a very upset stomach she managed to complete the entire Death Road, despite needing regular vomit breaks. Refusing to get in the support car caused Dom a considerable amount of concern, however we crossed the finish line together and even managed a celebratory jumping photo in our 'We Survived Death Road' t-shirts. After an all you can eat meal (for Dom only), we jumped in the vans for the 3 hour drive home. This was made even more interesting 10 minutes in with a truck that had managed to get itself stuck across both lanes, resulting in a one hour delay. Thanks to the generosity of some fellow people on the tour, Nikki was able to stretch out on the back seat and try to relax. All in all, an amazing adventure that won't be forgotten soon. |
Sucre, Bolivia
We arrived in the official capital of Bolivia at around lunchtime and settled into our hotel. There were quite a few options for activities to do in Sucre and we spent the afternoon sorting out which ones would be most enjoyable. It was difficult to choose as they were all pretty exciting but in the end we decided on a hike to some 65 million year old dinosaur footprints.
We got started early the next day for our hike. It involved a long drive to a small town and then a 2 hour hike to the prints. We had justified the hike by saying it would be great training for our Macchu Pichu climb in the coming weeks, however within minutes the conversations had stopped and we were staring at our feet as the altitude and lack of oxygen burnt our lungs. Luckily that was only for the first hour and the second had nice undulating hills and incredible views. After roaming through fields of wheat and quinoa we finally arrived at the prints and were blown away at how clear we could see where the dinosaur had walked. We scoffed down some food while sitting in a print then started the walk back. After a few minutes the heavens opened and while we were drenched, we were in high spirits and very happy at what we'd achieved. After spending the night drying shoes and other soaked clothes, we had another early start to do some quad-biking. Nikki decided she'd rather spend the day relaxing around Sucre, so Dom headed off by himself with a couple of others from the group. It was an awesome day and the views were incredible, as were the puddles from the rain the day before and everyone was trying to splash each other. Dom returned to the hotel to find that Nikki had bought a bunch of snacks and drinks for the upcoming night bus and that she was the best girlfriend ever and soon after we were on our way to the station ready for a 13 hour journey to La Paz. |
Potosi, Bolivia
The toughest stop of our trip so far. This was the most rural town we had visited and the people were not particularly welcoming of us 'gringos' (a term that we had heard a few times while travelling South America, but definitely the most here). It is not a tourist town. There is one 'attraction' to see and that's the mine in the mountain that overlooks the city.
We signed up for a full-day tour that involved walking through a pleasant town square and then onto the cemetery, which is filled with miners that have passed throughout the years. Walking through the city was difficult, as the air pollution is confronting, as are the stares from the locals. Our guide Pedro then took us into the mine. He kitted us out in protective clothing, gumboots and a helmet with a light so that we could see our way through the small tunnels in the mine. We were also able to buy presents for the miners, particularly large bottles of soft drink and coca leaves, the main source of energy for the men. We could also buy dynamite. From a milk bar. Sold by a 70 year lady... As it was Friday, Pedro also informed us that the miners might appreciate a bottle of their favourite alcohol- which upon smelling was something that was more likely to help clean your drains than drink. We both found it quite confronting once we were underground as the cramped conditions and dust in the air were difficult enough to deal with, let alone at 4000m above sea level. We spent about an hour and a half in the mine, observing the men at work and the outstanding OHS conditions. The light at the end of the tunnel could not have been more welcome and the shower afterwards was even better. The dust had worked its way into our clothes and the smell of the mines seemed to have seeped into our clothes permanently. We left the city grateful for the experience, but happy to depart. |
Salar de Uyuni (Salt Flats), Bolivia
The next 3 days were simply unbelievable. When they finished we actually spoke about how quickly they had flown, and how we needed to sit back and try and soak in exactly what we had seen and done. We made it into Bolivia eventually (a bit of snow caused some delay) and we located our 4x4s that would be our transport for the next 3 days. We settled in and began the journey. As we made our bumpy way we saw beautiful reflections off colourful lakes (ranging from, white, green and red), flocks of flamingoes finding food (isn't alliteration amazing?) and geysers spouting steam and bubbling mud.
We had lunch at some Thermal Springs (Polques) and got to sit in the warm water to relax. We climbed to almost 5000m and at some points were slapping on sunscreen, while others we were putting layer upon layer to protect ourselves from the cold. We drove until it was dark and then found our way to a town with a population of 400 people, Villa Alota. Very simple accommodation but the people were lovely and fed us warm, traditional food. Another early start as there was so much more to see, with the first stop being another tiny town called San Juan. Here there was what looked like big piles of rocks, but they turned out to be in fact ancient Incan burial sites, with skeletons still remaining. Incan's believed that you needed to be buried with your belongings for the afterlife so inside was also clothing and pottery. We could get so close to the tombs that you could reach in if you really wanted to. There was also a small museum explaining various aspects of daily life, including how they farmed quinoa (sorry hipsters, the Incan's were using it over 6000 years ago). Then it was back in the seats, bound for the Salt Flats. It came out of nowhere, which is really odd because it's over 10 000sq kilometres but we basically turned a corner, then there it was. Before we knew it we were on the blinding salt. It just keeps going. Luckily there'd been recent rain so the salt was really white. We jumped out, took a few fun photos and then made our way to one of the 26 islands on the flats, Isla Incahuasi. Covered in huge cacti and with a nice walking track that gives you incredible views of the seemingly endless salt, we made our way to the top. Natasha had given us an hour there, so we found a spot up on a rock and just, again, took it all in. The clouds and the setting sun made for some awesome colours and it was so peaceful and quiet. We slowly made our way back to the cars and were then flying again on the salt, bound for our hotel on the 'shore' of the lake. We knew we were staying in a hotel made of salt, but we weren't expecting it to be made out of salt. The walls were lined with massive salt bricks and the mortar was a salt blend. There were straw roofs and sandy floors, and while it might not sound comfortable, it really was and everyone was blown away. They provided delicious food and the views of the salt flats as the sun went down and the moon went up were indescribable. There was also a baby llama roaming around that Dom was told off by the owner for patting. It was pretty adorable though so he wasn't too fussed. We managed to get some sleep that night with salt flats out one window and a huge volcano out the other and hopped back in the cars ready for another days driving. We stopped to do some perspective photos (one of the popular things to do on the flats) and to check out the original Salt Hotel which is located right in the middle of the flats (it had to be shut down however due to...sanitation issues). We then drove off the salt and back onto bumpy dirt to stop at a small market and a Train Cemetery. The latter was really cool and there were old trains everywhere to climb on and through. We then headed back to civilisation for our stop for the night, where we had our first shower in a few days (the lack of salt was disappointing though). |
San Pedro de Atacama, Chile
It's tough to describe this place. You're literally in the middle of the desert (check it out on Google Maps) and there's this town that is packed with tourists. There's a main strip of shops (ranging from mini-markets to fancy jewellery), a town square, and then you look up and there's a snow capped mountain range with ancient volcanoes peering down on you. Bizarre. There are so many great things to do though and after we had roamed around the town having a shop, we went on a tour of the 'Valley of the Moon'. We were dwarfed by huge sand dunes, saw strange rock formations and as always had the mountains looking down. We've talked a lot on this trip about photos and the need for the 'perfect shot', but this was one of those places where we snapped a few, then stood back and took it all in. We again saw an incredible sunset, sipping on Pisco Sour's, and the colours on the mountains as the sun went down ranged from deep red, to orange, to purple.
So while that was peaceful and relaxing, 2 hours later at 10:30pm we were standing at the top of a sand dune, with a snowboard strapped to our feet, ready to fly down it. It was awesome. We went up and down for the next 2 hours, trying to ignore the burning in our lungs as we climbed at high altitude. At one point we climbed to the highest point we could, sat down and just chatted, surrounded by incredible rocks, looking up at the stars and incredible scenery illuminated by the full moon. Then we hurtled down, smashing into the sand halfway, and coming up with it all through our hair, clothes and shoes. Dom woke up the next morning chewing on some grains that obviously hadn't been washed out. Delicious. |
Salta, Argentina
There was then an early flight the next day to the North West city of Salta, Argentina. This was our last stop before hitting the desert and the salt flats so we were all pretty excited. We spent the afternoon heading to a local museum which revealed a lot about Incan culture and then a few of us walked up San Bernadino hill which gave us a breathtaking view of the area (which was a lot bigger than we thought). The following day was the highlight of Salta- a 2 hour horse ride through the countryside, followed by all you can eat steak and all you can drink wine. It was tough but we managed to enjoy ourselves. The drinks continued into the evening back in the town, which probably wasn't the best idea as we woke up feeling pretty rotten the next day and ahead of us was a 10 hour bus trip involving a climb to ...m and a border crossing into Chile. Despite the views being absolutely incredible, the altitude got to Dom and the new tour leader Natasha told him (after he said he was fine), "Don't be stupid, your face is purple". This was actually a welcome change from the sunburnt red his face has been the majority of the trip, but still not good (that's a joke, Mum). We wound our way through the snow-capped peaks and finally arrived late afternoon in San Pedro de Atacama
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Buenos Aires, Argentina
We ferried from Colonia the next morning across the river and into Buenos Aires, Argentina. There was a lot of anticipation within the group about arriving here, but we were happy to suss out what to do and see once we arrived. We were staying right in the heart of the city, which meant we had great access to the main shopping strip (similar to Bourke Street in Melbourne). Once we'd dropped our bags off, we headed out and did a bit of shopping, something that we hadn't really felt the need to do so far. Nikki picked up some things, but unfortunately South America doesn't cater for Dom's size 12 feet when he was looking for new runners.
We had a tango show to attend that night, which was a lot of fun. It consisted of a great meal, the show, as well as a lesson on how to actually do the dance. We were of course naturals (not really- Dom couldn't seem to stop looking at his feet no matter how hard he tried). After that was a big night out with everyone at a bar for some more drinking and dancing. Was a lot of fun, but quite a few weary heads the next morning (including our own) meant that anything touristy that we'd hoped to achieve was out the window. Luckily Daryl had offered to do a walking tour later in the afternoon and we made the most of that, as he showed us important streets, monuments and buildings (including the Palace, that isn't symmetrical which makes it only slightly infuriating). The next day was our final full day in Buenos Aires and we were determined to make the most of it and see all the things we needed to see. First stop was La Boca, one of the poorest and most dangerous parts of the city. We had been told there was only 3 streets that we were allowed to walk on, all of which were pretty touristy with a lot of shops. However you could get a sense of how the area used to be, with lots of coloured houses, interesting balconies and staircases leading everywhere. Then it was time for a stroll through the nicer areas San Telmo and Palermo, before heading to Recoleta cemetery which was really interesting, but eerie. Eva Peron was laid to rest here (it took awhile- look up the story if you get a chance), as well as other popular Argentinian people. There were some burial sites that were so rundown that you could touch the coffin, while others that were incredibly ornate. We didn't particularly like the creepiness factor, but still great. |
Colonia, Uruguay
The next main stop was Buenos Aires, however we needed to have an overnight stop in a little town called Colonia before ferrying over to Argentina early the next day.
We bussed from Montevideo and arrived in the small, quaint town. Not a huge amount to do, but a nice old town with cobbled streets and an old fort. We had the afternoon to roam, eat and be followed by a stray dog who seemed pretty taken with Nikki after she waved at him. There's also a small lighthouse that had a great view of the river (and in the very far distance, the tops of Buenos Aires skyscrapers). The sunset, once again, was incredible, so we grabbed an ice cream, sat our bums on some rocks and watched, with Nikki managing to take the photo of the trip. |
Montevideo, Uruguay
Again we regretfully left a place the next day, hopping on another minibus bound for the capital. Daryl gave us a bit of a history lesson on the 3 hour drive, telling us about Che Guevara and the antics he got up to. He wasn't someone we knew a huge amount about and it was really interesting learning about his work with Castro in Cuba and his death in Bolivia.
The hotel in Montevideo was the best so far on the trip, and as we arrived late in the afternoon we decided not to try and sightsee and just make the most of the big gym and relaxing spa. Daryl had organised some bikes for hire the following day so we set out early for La Rambla (promenade along the beach). Immediately we got a little St Kilda vibe- nice, long beaches (actually a river, not the ocean), lots of people exercising and clear sunshine. We cruised along, taking photos and people watching. We stumbled across some Indian expats playing some cricket on a makeshift oval, and Daryl managed to get stuck into them about the Aussies winning the semi-final in the World Cup. We eventually got to the Old Town where we did a free walking tour with a lady named Maria. The city has such a great history with interesting buildings and architecture. Maria told us about an unknown, rogue artist who has been trying to 'fix the holes' in the city- he finds missing tiles and bricks in the sidewalk and replaces them with creative mosaics. It definitely adds something to the already fun town, similar to Banksy and the 'Space Invader' in France. We strolled through parks, learning about Uruguayan migration history and finished up at a big building down near the docks. It turns out the building itself was a train station that was meant to be for Peru, but they decided they didn't want it and it wound up in Montevideo. Lots of people eating in a variety of restaurants and a small market outside added to the atmosphere. We then located our parked bikes, jumped on and cruised back to our hotel as the sun was setting. Definitely a city that we would love to return to and spend a bit more time in |
Estancia Ranch, Uruguay
Our destination was a ranch in the Uruguayan countryside. The overnight bus trip was relatively uneventful. They did provide entertainment - a horror film called 'Alien Invaders' - which was made even more terrifying by the fact the conductor has the volume at 100%. He also decided that 11:30pm was the ideal time to start the movie and that all lights should be on. So we pumped up the music in our ears, closed our eyes and tried to get some sleep.
Before we knew it we had arrived at the Uruguyan border, were picked up by our mini-bus driver (appropriately nicknamed 'Wrecking Ball' due to his rotund frame) and he dropped us at the ranch. The two and a half days there were a great change of pace. We had incredible home-cooked meals, played table tennis and drank wine and beer. Another tour group arrived a few hours after us and it was like in 'Survivor' when they join the tribes. We definitely wouldn't have been going to Tribal Council, as they had a few oddballs. One woman was dressed as if she was about to climb Everest and others struggled to hold a conversation. We did have a dance all together on the first night though with great music from Kane's iPod and there was some romance between members. We also managed to impress/disgust the crowd during a Charades drinking game where the two of us displayed some pretty incredible telekinesis. We spent the rest of the days playing soccer, going for a run, reading books and riding horses. The sunset was incredible and we all sat outside with beers as it dropped out of the sky. They put on a bonfire on the last night and because the sky was beautifully clear, we helped point out Southern Hemisphere constellations to those that live North. |
Iguassu Falls, Brazil (and a bit of Argentina)
Our next stop was always going to be one of the highlights of the trip, but until we got there we really had no idea how much of an affect it would have on us both. Iguassu Falls is a place that, until close friends and family told us stories about it, we really knew nothing about. The enormity of these waterfalls (over 200 in total) was breathtaking.
We flew into Foz de Iguassu (the closest town to the falls) from Sao Paolo after a 5am bus trip to start the day. Tired and weary, we would have been more than happy to head to the hotel and relax into the afternoon. Thankfully Daryl knew better and informed us that we would be heading to the Brazilian side of the falls that afternoon to make the most of the picture perfect day it was. We're so incredibly grateful he did so because we spent the next 4 hours with huge smiles on our faces. First was a 15min helicopter tour over the falls, which gave us an idea of the layout of the huge area. We were very lucky to have received some money as a gift to spend on something special and we couldn't think of a better way to cash it in. It was perfect we did as we had the most perfect view and Dom managed to not drop his video camera out the window. The fun didn't stop there and we then bussed it to the entrance of the walkway that takes us right to the heart of the Brazilian side of the falls. Jot there about 45 min before close which turned out to be ideal as the crowds had all but disappeared and we had the place to ourselves. Unimpeded photo opportunities and the best views we could ask for. Everyone was in high spirits the next day, excited to experience what the Argentinian side of the falls was like. After a quick border crossing, our first stop was the 'Devil's Throat'. It's as intense as its name. While on the Brazilian side we were close to the fall of the falls, here we were standing on top of them. Words fail to describe the feeling and the speed of the water is what we found most overwhelming. If you stared at one spot in particular it was as if it was an optical illusion. We then walked the Upper Trail, then time for the most anticipated part of the day- getting on a boat and letting it drive us underneath and into the falls. This was a huge highlight so far of the trip, experiencing the flood of water smash down on us. Next day was a relax in the town and preparing for our 16 hour bus trip ahead. We crossed back into Argentina, made our way to the bus stop, helped Hayley clean up her smashed bottle of rum and then settled into our seats ready for the long overnight journey. |
Paraty, Brazil.
It was time to move on though to bigger and better things and we ferried back to fish town. The bus was waiting and ready to take us on to Paraty, a major colonial town in the olden days, located further south. An incredibly interesting city consisting of the Old town, close to the water and filled with cobblestone streets and beautiful white buildings, and the New town, with more modern architecture and technology. Before getting a chance to explore the city however, Daryl mentioned the possibility of a swim at a waterfall and natural water slides about a 20min bus ride away. The rain started coming and the bus was late but it was definitely worth it as we spent the afternoon sliding down slippery rocks into a deep pool. It looks painful but the rocks are so slimy that the worst you can get is a minor scratch. Dom also got the chance to jump off a 10m cliff (perfectly safe don't worry mum). There's video of some of us going down on the Videos page.
Rain unfortunately postponed a night walking tour of the Old Town, mainly due to the fact that the old streets flood incredibly easily, but we decided to make the most of the nice weather the next day, exploring shops and taking photos of the interesting old town. A couple of beers by the beach was also very welcome to rest our weary legs and when the tide had risen and was touching our toes we decided to wander back to the hotel. We'd found a nice Thai restaurant and another family dinner was had and then a couple of drinks at a small bar in the New Town with some pool and guitar playing to go with. |
Ilha Grande, Brazil.
Our first destination on the tour was Ilha Grande, a small island South of Rio. To get there involved a bus, a half hour wait in a town that just smelled of fish, and then a ferry. The boat took us through a variety of the islands, and despite the overcast weather the scenery was spectacular with the tops of hills sticking out over low hanging clouds.
Ilha Grande itself lived up to the hype and due to a lucky upgrade we secured rooms at one of the nicer hotels. Then another family dinner with everyone, a good opportunity to learn a bit more about the people we are going to be spending a lot of time with. One of the more famous spots on the island was the beach Lopes Mendez and that's where we spent a first full day on the island. There's two ways to get there- a 15 minute boat or a 3 hour hike. We were pretty pleased we decided to put our shoes on and get walking because the day was clear and the views were incredible. It was welcome relief when we finally made it to the beach however and we jumped straight into the clear water. The day was spent body surfing, boogie boarding, relaxing, chatting and taking in paradise. We did opt for the boat back though and after a quick clean up we all headed for dinner at a restaurant recommended by our tour leader Daryl. Now pasta is not what you'd expect to be eating on a remote island in Brazil but this food was incredible. Home-made and delicious. A few drinks after dinner was needed so we relaxed into the night at a restaurant by the beach, watching an incredible electrical storm. This then led to a downpour of epic proportions just as we were walking back to the hotel. "Fuck it, I'm English" was one of my more favourite quotes of the night from Hayley, a Brit who was attempting to run through the rain but decided it wasn't worth the battle. The next day was spent snorkelling at a number of other beaches around the island. It was a really enjoyable day in the water and we managed to spot a number of interesting fish we hadn't seen before. Those that decided to stay on the beach all day had done some recon and found a great restaurant for dinner. A lot of Bohemias later (and a hamburger that was just a rump steak) we found ourselves having a dance and a drink at a bar further up the beach, before being serenaded on the walk back to bed by a guy with a Ukulele. |
Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.
After a stopover in Sao Paolo and an eventful Macca's trip, we made it mid-afternoon to Rio. We decided to catch a bus to our hostel in Ipanema and the drive from the airport gave us a good understanding of the layout of the city. We were mesmerised as we made our way through the Favelas- some of the poorest neighbourhoods we have seen- and eventually broke free of Friday night peak hour traffic and drove along the coast. A short walk to our hostel (definitely a diamond in the rough) and a evening relaxing and drinking some great beer at a local boutique shop. Definitely gave Slow Beer a run for its money.
Saturday's plan was to head straight to Christ Redeemer. What an amazing experience. Strongly recommend getting the tram car up the hill rather than the shuttle bus. It will mean a bit more of a wait but there's a cafe to keep cool in. The view from the top was a bit impeded by fog, but not terribly so and we got to see the great expanse of Rio. The statue itself was quite overwhelming and despite the crowds taking selfies (we too joined in) it was great just to spend time up on top of the hill underneath the mammoth Jesus. By the time we got back to the hostel, the humidity and heat had well and truly gotten to us and we decided to walk the 3 blocks down to Ipanema beach for a swim. Famous for spectacular sunsets, we very much enjoyed having a dip and diving through the powerful waves that slam into the sand close to shore. There was a lot of exposed skin and people selling drinks and snacks and after taking in the atmosphere we slowly made our way back to our hostel before heading out for a bite and one too many Caipirinha's (famous Brazilian drink consisting of cachaca, sugar and lime). Dom's head wasn't spectacular the next morning but we both powered on determined for a long walk along Copacabana and onto Fort du Leme. We soon found a major protest was taking place along the main road and we walked along with the thousands of Brazilians, clearly unhappy with what many believe is a corrupt government. After trying to get on TV a couple of times, we finally broke through the crowds and made it to the Fort entrance. After a refreshing 800m walk up a hill in the shade and stopping to watch some entertaining monkeys, we got to the top of what we both think is a hidden treasure of Rio. The view of Copacabana was incredible and also of the more popular (and admittedly higher) Sugarloaf mountain on the other side. After a quick taxi back (Dom was already far too sunburnt for another walk- sorry Mum) it was time for another swim and then dinner in Ipanema. Then it was D-Day- our 50 day tour of South America was about to begin. We had a quick lunch of raw chicken on the beach (staff didn't seem very concerned about the fact that they had undercooked the meal and we weren't able to convince them of a discount. Luckily it didn't come back to bite Nix later on). We then met the rest of our tour group at our starting hostel in Copacabana- awesome bunch consisting of some other Aussies, Poms, Swiss, Dutch and an American. We got to know each other over a meal then went to bed for an early bus departure the next day. |
Santiago, Chile.
Santiago at a glance isn't particularly 'touristy'. There isn't a huge amount to see and do in terms of local monuments and buildings. For most Australians it is a city of transit to somewhere else on the continent or beyond and for others it's a necessary stop to get to perfect powder snow in the north and incredible camping spots in the south. Two locals that we spoke to stated that it just "isn't built for visitors". No effort is really made at the attractions to provide English/European translations of what you're seeing or standing in. But despite this, it doesn't really matter. The people are friendly, the food is good (if you research well) and the views from certain parts of the city are breathtaking.
After arriving mid afternoon on Monday we spent the majority of the day catching up on missing sleep from our 12 hour flight from Sydney. We didn't venture far and wound up eating dinner at a tacky Seafood Restaurant at the end of the street our hostel was on. Our waiter was dressed like Popeye but he brought nice beers and we were so tired we can't even remember what we ate. More sleep than was intended started the second day of our adventure but we justified it well by saying we wanted to be well rested for our 50-day tour starting next week. We found a map, thought the Palacio de la Moneda looked good and made our way there (after a minor mix up between the two of us regarding the direction). Hunger pangs kicked in and resulted in what will be one of the more eventful meals of our trip. It involved a salad of lettuce and steamed broccoli, a whole plain chicken breast and rice, and a peach that could have been left on the tree a little longer. It wasn't quite what we expected but we powered on and made our way to the Palace. From there we wandered to Plaza de Armas which had a nice cathedral and park with a lot of people sitting and relaxing. We grabbed an icy pole to appease the mid-30s heat and walked back to the hostel. Wednesday was activities day as we set out to see some more sights. First was San Cristobal, the most famous attraction in the city. At the top of this hill is not only a beautiful monument to the Virgin Mary, but also a view of the city that is unrivalled. It gives a true idea of what the sprawling city looks like. We contemplated the walk up to the top, however because of the heat we decided on the Funicular instead. Fun being the operative word. From the top we saw Castillo Hildago and decided we wanted to get a closer look. We walked down through Patio Bellavista (awesome burger at Uncle Fletch) and got to the castle. Another wonderful view from within the city and sprinklers spouting water as relief from the heat. We then had the pleasure of meeting up with Nikki's family friend Jose Antonio. He's a local who took us to his house in the more affluent part of town. He showed us the most incredible houses that sit above Santiago and even his local golf course where we got to test out skills at the driving range. This was followed by an incredible birthday dinner and drinks for his daughter Pepita, where we both had our first pisco sour and taste of traditional home made ceviche. Our final full day in Chile was spent at the coastal town of Valparaiso. We've had many discussions about this town. It just wasn't quite what we were expecting when we pulled in, and while some parts of the city were fun to walk around (lots of street art and nice views), the rest was a confusing maze of endless stairs and stray animals. To be diplomatic, it was an interesting day. |